In Nice
A friend in Nice complains that this winter has been one of the worst in years for Nice, but I am seeing nothing but sunshine when I arrive, and couldn’t be happier. We lunch along the promenade next to the Monday antiques market.
Nice’s Carnival stretches out over nearly two weeks, and dates back to at least 1294. Charles d’ Anjou, Count of Provence, wrote then that he spent “some joyous days of carnival” in Nice.
On Tuesday, I attend the Night Parade, which at times seems wildly out of control, with throngs of people practically standing in the parade route.
But my friend explains that the mayor had urged for a more participatory feel. And the crowd does participate, especially with cans of silly string.
One of my favorite floats is a parody of Russian politics, with Putin at the center of ever-changing Russian figure-heads.
The specialty of Nice’s Carnival is the Flower Parade that circles the promenade a few different days.
Begun in 1876, the Parade was once an informal show of the rich winter visitor’s flower-decorated carriages. Today, some 100,000 flowers are thrown to the crowds, and 90% of the flowers are grown especially for these days in the French Riveria. The yellow mimosa is the most prevalent.
On my last night in Nice, my friend buys two specialties of French Carnival: sweet flat-bread-like oreillettes and bugnes, an asymmetrical donut-like pastry. I wonder if they had these in 1294?
Benjamin Thomas
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