Venice – Bologna – Torino – Ventimiglia – Nice
The midnite train leaving Venice is packed with costumed revelers, slightly less costumed now than in earlier in the day. Waiting in Bologna for a connecting train, I meet Angelo, an Italian carrying a large styrofoam crate.

He’s on his way to a sculpting competition, and he shows me a picture on his phone of his creation inside the crate – an angel made of margarine. Or at least, I believe it’s margarine that he is trying to describe to me, miming the word as best he can. Margarine is all I can think of. It is 3 in the morning.
Update: Angelo has written me that his butter sculpture won the gold medal. Here’s a picture of his creation, carefully carried by train in the styrofoam crate.
Arriving on the next train to Torino, I awake to see snow banks dominating the landscape.

It’s amazing that within a few hours, after passing through Ventimiglia on the way to Nice, I’d next be seeing this:

Benjamin Thomas
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