Archive:
In Budapest
Happy New Year! A friend always watches the first trains of the New Year arriving and departing in Budapest Read more
Budapest – Salzburg – Ljubljana – Rijeka – Labin
I am on my way to meet friends in Labin, Croatia. Traveling first from Budapest, I am greeted by the Hungarian dining-car woman who I first met at Christmastime. She had given me an orange, and I had dug some chocolates from the bottom of my backpack for her. Read more
In Labin, Croatia
Labin is not your typical destination. I am going to visit friends on the Istrian peninsula, and if they didn’t live there, I might not be here in winter. “You’ve got to come back in summer,” they keep saying. I always laugh when I hear this… I can’t see everyplace in the [...] Read more
Labin – Trieste – Venice – Florence – Viareggio
I’ve learned that train service in Croatia is good between Zagreb, Rijeka and Split. But if you are traveling outside of these cities, the roads will be your best bet. Though I did sit white-knuckled as one of the buses meandered along sea-cliffs. Read more
In Viareggio
“Viareggio is dead in winter,” an Italian says to me on the train ride here, before quickly smiling and adding, “But wait, you’re going for Carnival, aren’t you?” Viareggio is anything but dead for 4 Sundays of Carnival. Read more
Viareggio – Florence – Vienna – Budapest
On the local train from Viareggio to Florence, the heat is turned up high, which induces a much needed nap. Train Tip: Many Italian seat reservations are a flat fee, and are not adjusted dependent on the length of journey. For example, I am incurring a 7 Euro Seat Reservation fee or 37 [...] Read more
Budapest – Vienna – Maribor – Ptuj, Slovenia
I’m riding the new Rail Jet to Vienna, the high-speed train of OBB, Austria’s Rail Company. In operation for only some months, it’s already become a popular alternative to the Hungarian trains that usually rattle out of Budapest. I transfer in Vienna, so I’m not sure what the top speeds of this train become. [...] Read more
In Ptuj, Slovenia
If you hear cowbells in Ptuj at this time of year, don’t expect to see cows. Rather, the clanking of bells can be heard from the large, monstrous costumes of Kurent that invade the streets. Read more
Ptuj – Maribor – Ljubljana – Venice
Bus service connects Ptuj to Maribor. In Maribor, the bus and train stations are only a 5 minute walk away from each other. I take an InterCity (IC) train from Maribor to Ljubljana. Strangely a first-class seat reservation costs 2.50 Euros, while there is no seat reservation fee for second class. [...] Read more
In Venice
It’s Carnival in Venice, one of the most famous in the world. Read more
Venice – Bologna – Torino – Ventimiglia – Nice
The midnite train leaving Venice is packed with costumed revelers, slightly less costumed now than in earlier in the day. Waiting in Bologna for a connecting train, I meet Angelo, an Italian carrying a large styrofoam crate. Read more
In Nice
A friend in Nice complains that this winter has been one of the worst in years for Nice, but I am seeing nothing but sunshine when I arrive, and couldn’t be happier. We lunch along the promenade next to the Monday antiques market. Nice’s Carnival stretches out over nearly two weeks, and dates back to [...] Read more
In Menton, France
Menton is the furthest east you can go on the French Riviera: a small town of 30,000 whose reputation is growing because of it’s take on Carnival: the Citron Festival. Read more
Nice to Koln, Germany
One of France’s several nite trains is a popular train from Nice to Strasbourg. It offers both beds and special fully-reclinable seats. Either require a separate seat or bed reservation with the Eurail Pass. Read more
In Koln, Germany
I arrive in Koln on an overcast morning, and the whole city seems to have a hangover. The occasional sound of glass bottle chips crackling under my shoes breaks the eerie quiet. “Most people will sleep today off,” it’s explained to me as I exit the train station. “Last night it all [...] Read more
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