In Salzburg

Salzburg is a beautiful city that is placed at the crossroads of cultures.
The Hohensalzburg fortress that towers over the city is a reminder of the wars and aristocracies that once ruled the land.

The magnificent churches, ornate art detail, and numerous performances are a reminder of the influence the Vatican and art world have had on this city.
The founder of the Salzburg Festival said a century ago that all of the city seemed like a stage. I was reminded of this as I left one courtyard to enter a cemetery where families had decorated gravesites with Christmas trees and candles.

The Salzburger Marionette Theater has special Nutcracker performances during the holidays and a new “Sound of Music” marionette show. (www.marionetten.at) I had the pleasure of meeting an 80 year old woman who has been a puppeteer at the theater for 65 years, relishing in Salzburg’s artistic heritage.

Like all else in Salzburg, the Christmas markets are artistically envisioned.

But that doesn’t mean they aren’t without the kitsch of all other markets. I was looking at angel ornaments in one market stall.

“Angel ornaments are particular to here,” a British woman next to me said. “And why are they always chubby?” I, or rather, my gluwhein, replied. “That’s how cherubs are supposed to be,” she said as she walked away in the tone of a distraught art historian.
I leaned in to consider one of the ceramic painted ornaments on a frail gold string, when I noticed the price tag: 74 Euros. As did my Austrian friend: “74 Euros? That’s ridiculous,” he said. “What’s inside the belly – cocaine?”
Yet another moment on the Salzburg stage.
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Benjamin Thomas
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