I make my way from Budapest to Vienna to catch the night train from Vienna to Krakow. In Vienna, taking the tram from Westbahnhof to Sudbahnhof, I meet a Brazilian woman who is traveling across Europe.
We arrive at the ticket counter in Vienna Sudbanhof around 9:30pm. We each have a Rail Pass, but we know that we will need a supplemental ticket for the night train. The ticket agent tells us that no beds can be reserved on this train after 7pm. He explains that we have to purchase a bed supplemental ticket on the train. We think he says “40 Euros,” and the Brazilian woman says “forget it, I can sleep in a seat, I don’t need a bed.”
We lose each other in the rush of people boarding the night train. On board, I’m delighted to learn we misheard the station agent: a bed supplemental ticket is only 14 Euros. I think that I’ll find the Brazilian woman and tell her the good news, so I start walking through the train wagons to find her. I never do. But these wagons are packed with people, and I learn that the wagons will separate overnight, some heading to Moscow, some Prague, and some Poland. I’m lucky my wagon isn’t very full. My compartment has only one man from Madagascar.
Train Tip: Strongly consider booking a bed reservation on Eastern European trains in advance. I can’t explain the 7pm cut-off rule, but know that it exists. Some of those wagons were quite full, and if are you are expecting a bed, it’s better not to be disappointed. On boarding these night trains, look on the outside of your wagon near the entrance door for a printed destination sign, and ask a train agent to be certain. Mine spoke good English. I couldn’t imagine anything worse than waking up in the wrong city.
Benjamin Thomas
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